Una Barca, un gruppo di italiani in pensione….. e mi

I woke to a beautiful morning and kept my fingers crossed that a grotto/coastline boat trip would happen today. I’ve been waiting for a day when a group or two has booked to tag along. They won’t go just for little ol’ me.

Ever hopeful, I got up early, had breakfast and the lovely Paola in Reception made the call.  And we got the green light. So I drove down to the port, went to the wrong boat, which was heaving with people, and happily discovered I was going on a smaller one with just one group of very lively pensioners from Rimini.

I got a few suspicious looks at first but once they discovered I was English they all wanted to show me what they knew. ,”sit down”, “thank you very much” “shut up”. It was all a bit random but they were a delight.

And so was the coast. We went up the side of the coast from Vieste to the tip of the Gargano. Lots of spectacular beaches and stunning grottos. The boat went into the tiniest of grottos to many ” bravo” and claps from the appreciative crowd.

I took loads of pictures but here are a few. Leaving Vieste behind….

 

Passed a few arches in the rocks, a fisherman’s system that I’ve mentioned previously and a number of seagulls to make me feel at home!

 

Then the grottos

 

And back to Vieste..

Quite a good way to spend three hours, don’t you think?

I then went for possibly the worst pasta I have had in my whole time in Italy. However, when she saw I wasn’t eating it, she redeemed herself and the restaurant by bringing me a slice of the most delicious ricotta and pear cheesecake. She was completely forgiven!

The rest of the day was spent reading my book by the pool. I fear the last such day as the wet weather is predicted to arrive tomorrow for the next few days. Let’s see.

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Monte Sant’Angelo

This is high on a hilltop. The original structure under the Basilica was believed to have been built in the late 5th century. The cave then had other rooms attached to it.  The archangel Michael is said to have appeared here. The Basilica still holds services in the cave. One was going on when I arrived so I couldn’t take photos but it’s an incredibly spiritual place. You can feel the energy of all the pilgrims who’ve come over the centuries and graffitied the walls of the stairwell that leads down to the cave. My only sadness was that there were so many tour groups it was hard to just absorb it all.

The famous bronze door was created in 1076!

 

I then went to the Tomb of Rhotaris. It’s actually not a Tomb but there was a mistranslation of dome which was added to the Baptisery in the 12th century.

And then there’s the castle. Stunning views and you can go inside the tower and wander down the narrow halls, minding your head as you go!!

 

What a day. I drove back through the Forest. Still no sign of the deer!  Apparently there are only two groups of protected deer in Italy. Here and near Rome!

Although it’s breezy, there was time to relax in the sun after a fab drive and day. This one’s for those in the UK dodging the snow flurries

 

A drive through the Forest Umbra..

Today I decided to visit Monte Sant’Angelo…more of which to come. The lovely Paola in reception suggested a different route from the one I came via and I’m so glad she did.   About 20 km of the most stunning Forest you can imagine. The road wasn’t too winding so I could actually enjoy the view as I went. And I stopped to take a couple of pics. What a joy this place is

Sometimes words aren’t needed. Nature just does it!

Throw back to a few weeks ago..

..because Sheila (who was on the same day course) sent me this pic and I loved the day at The Awaiting Table so much I wanted to share …

 

This is Jackie, Silvestro ( our chef and maestro for the day) and me. We are making pasta at this point…or at least trying to!  

A stroll around Vieste and old school fishing..

I went for a stroll late morning around Vieste. The old town is very quaint with narrow streets. It’s a bit of a ghost town at the moment although I do pass other tourists. Mind you, I’m embarrassed to say the ones that were completely unfriendly were a small group of elderly English tourists. Clearly on a group and very rude!  Shame on them.

But back to Vieste. A few pics

 

I can imagine it’s not so pleasant when it’s mobbed in the summer.

After lunch, a plate of grilled courgette and aubergine, followed by orecchiette pomodoro, I went for a drive.  Well, it was holiday village after holiday village. This place must be heaving in the summer.  I went on to Peschici. Sadly my least impressed moment. Maybe I missed the best bit but I quickly retreated back to Vieste. However, en route I passed the Trabucchi. These are typical constructions from the area used for fishing. A complex system of wooden poles, wires and pulleys operate it. They are no longer in use but 7 survive and are protected as historic monuments.

I’m waiting to hear when, if, I can do a boat tour of the grottos. Hopefully will get a chance but it depends on demand.

Back at the hotel for a relaxing evening. Feeling a bit tired after yesterday’s drive.

 

Good morning Vieste!

A great night sleep in a wonderfully comfortable bed. This is the morning view this morning

Not bad eh?

This hotel is lovely but just to give you an idea of the difference between my terrace and the balcony rooms. Here they are. Don’t get me wrong I would have been very happy with any of them (she thought as she swayed on her hammock).

 

It really is a pretty hotel and I’ve passed quite a few here that definitely miss the mark. It’s 3* because the restaurant is only for breakfast and there is no porter. But it’s incredible.   Still to have the breakfast but the reviews have been spot on so far so fingers crossed. Just nice not to be making my own.

Oh and I just wanted to post the most stunning photo the delightful Sheila took of some wild flowers further south. Sheila and Ed were the other couple on my cookery course. It was her birthday too!  I was so lucky it was such a great little group of people and I hope we will all stay in touch.

There are no words…..

Vieste here I come….

It was with a certain amount of sadness that I packed away the last few things and left my little house in Lecce. I have had a great 4 weeks so was nervous about what was to come.

It’s a long drive to Vieste.   About 340 kms. So it was going to take a while. Fortunately Gio was picking up his friend Amanda from the airport this morning so we arranged to meet in Polignano. It’s about a third of the way so a good breaking point, plus I know it.

It was beautiful there today.

We had a lovely lunch. I had pasta filled with cheese and a pistachio sauce.  Delicious, every bite. It was great to meet Amanda too and Gio’s dog, Bob. Quite the cutie (Bob not Gio – although Gio does have the best giggle on the planet!)

So (sorry Karl) off I set and a few hours later found myself driving up and down several mountainsides on roads that twisted and turned for ever. But oh my, the views were breathtaking. I stopped a couple of times to take pics. It had to be done.

 

And eventually I arrived in Vieste.   My hotel is fab. Il Castellino Relais. I found it through booking.com and you can never be sure but it rated out 9 and all I really care about is that it’s clean and liveable in.  Well it’s lovely.   Surrounded by a wall, it has a lovely drive up with a tennis court and swimming pool. It’s a sweet pink. And the lovely paola in reception has upgraded me to what they call a junior suite. I don’t think the room is any different. BUT. I booked a balcony and I got the biggest roof terrace ever. I have my own big round seater, my own hammock and table and chairs and enough room to swing all the cats in Rome!!

 

That is my door onto the roof in the picture on the right. And the views are stunning. Lucky me!  They are quiet at the moment but even so. I brought some night candles to light on the terrace one night!

The restaurant is only for breakfast but at least it’s from 730 to 1130. None of this all done by 9. And just outside the restaurant is a little terrace which gets the sun to early evening. Might sit down there and see who is around if I miss everyone ( if there is anyone else) staying here.

 

 

Took myself into the main part of town for some dinner. It’s definitely still out of season but things are open and the locals are out and about.

Not enough tourists around for organised Tours but that’s OK. I’ve got the car. I want to go to a couple of places. I’ll be reporting back.

 

4 weeks just like that…

I can’t believe that 4 weeks have already gone by. I tell you folks savour every moment. It passes by too fast!

Leaving Lecce tomorrow morning to travel north to Vieste at the top of Puglia. It’s about a 4 hour drive but I’m breaking it up to meet a friend in Polignano a Mare. I have mixed feelings about leaving. I want to see more of Puglia but feel like my heart will remain in Salento. You never know. Open mind and all that…  I’m also moving from having my own place to staying in a hotel so that will be interesting.

But just before I go. One last post about Lecce. The old city is a walled city. When it got full, homes started to be erected just outside the walls. And they are equally as stunning. My car is currently parked next to these two beauties..

 

What a world of untold history lies below the foundations of all these magnificent buildings both inside and outside the city walls.

 

Tornerò ( as Arnie once said!)

 

This is how relaxed I’ve become..

..I sat on my roof terrace this morning and despite the weather report saying rain, it was in fact a beautiful morning. However the sky did look a bit like a scene from the Simpsons and then I started trying to decide what this cloud most reminded me of…

I’m going with a smiling chick. But happy for other suggestions.

It’s a national holiday today so the roads are quiet, no one woke me early with their cars or workmen on the nearby house being converted. Lovely.

After a bit of reading on the terrace, I decided to go into the city for a glass of Rosato and a bite to eat. Today was cheese rolled inside aubergine. Sorry no picture.

I came home and thought about doing some Italian revision on the roof top but got sidetracked by this having just emerged on the terrace

Beautiful isn’t it.

Oh and they were right about the weather just a bit delayed but it’s absolutely pouring down now.  There has been the odd shower, or overnight rain but this is my first real daytime downpour to be fair since I first got here so I really can’tcomplain.

And it will help the flowers…should be sunny tomorrow though. Well you wouldn’t want it to go on too long.

Cannoli heaven…

So I haven’t yet shared the real joys of the pasticceria. Usually accommodating the gelateria as well. If you look beyond the gelato then often a joyous array of yummies are laid out before you.

The little almond cakes..which come in a variety of flavours…

 

And the cannoli. Always with cream but sometimes added extras like chocolate..

Photographed for your delight not my consumption. Well OK one or two may have come home with me but purely for research purposes!