Lecce- ti voglio bene! My last full day

I can’t believe it’s gone so fast. I wanted to make the most of today, so up and out for my morning coffee

As I was sitting in the Piazza D’Oronzo and people watching, it struck me how old sits with new. Building wise that is. Immediately behind the beautiful seat of Lecce is a modern building built during starker times.

And yet somehow they both have found their place. I guess that’s what I feel about this place.  Historic buildings aren’t tucked away, or developed beyond recognition, it just is as it is. All are occupied and used for whatever purpose they suit. It’s not so much a historic city but a living history.

Still some thing’s do belong in a museum for protection and I went around the archeological museum today. It was quiet and I was the only person there. They opened it up for me and let me roam at my leisure. Actually a real treat to do. Stopping for as long as I wished, asking questions of the curator because it was just me and her. My own private tour.

The building is also magnificent as you would expect. With a beautiful courtyard.

When I was finished I sat and had a caffe in ghiaccio con latte di Mandorla for the final time and for research purposes only purchased a pasticciotto. It’s a local delicacy – a pastry pie filled with egg custard.

Had to be done. And I had to bite into it or how else could I show you the inside.

Off to dinner tonight with the lovely Gio. Perfect way to end this trip.

Ti voglio bene Lecce.

Lecce.. morning til night

I went off for a trip to the beautiful city of Ostuni today. This meant an early start.  I love wandering the old city of Lecce early in the morning. It’s so quiet, I feel that it’s all mine. And the morning light is something else..

I had a wonderful day in Ostuni with Jemma. We wandered around the antique market and then sat for a few hours progressing from coffee to a spritz to a soft drink. A meander through the back streets of Ostuni followed. Then I drove home.

Evening in Lecce has its own charms..

 

The exotic…

Why is it that sleeping under a mosquito net has an air of far away places and exotic climates. Here it’s a necessity.  The pesky little blighters are very persistent and seemingly take great pleasure in taking as big a bite as possible.

So whilst the initial sight of a mosquito net over a bed has cinematic, romantic overtures. Trust me, it’s the only way to keep the little menaces out!!!  Crema di zanzare anyone?

You just never know..

When I leave the apartment and walk into the main square I just never know what I’m going to find. Tonight within seconds of leaving the apartment, I could hear drums. I followed the sound and a big group of people were turning into the Piazza Duomo holding balloons.  It was some kind of procession but I’m not sure what. What was lovely was that it was all families. Once they were all in the Piazza, the drums started again, the boys waved flags and then hundreds of balloons were released into the night sky. My photos were mostly rubbish but here are a couple to capture the flavour.

 

It’s a beautiful night here in Lecce and the Piazza looked stunning all lit up

 

So it was definitely time for a gelato. Well not quite. I went for a yogurt   but with miele e noci.   Delicioso.

Early start tomorrow up to Ostuni.

Dinner with friends old and new and so much meat…..(warning to all my veggie friends -this may offend!)

I’m not the biggest meat eater..once in a blue moon. So when Carmen, my fantastic Italian teacher and hopefully now also someone I can call a friend, invited me to dinner at La Locanda del Macellaio,  a steakhouse, I was happy to give it a go.  We were joined by two of her friends and work partners, Elaine and Enrico. It’s a great place.  You are greeted by a display of meat and you choose your dinner which is then cooked for you.

Not a vegetable in sight so not for the non meat eaters at all. Apart from being really tasty, it was a fun night using a mix of English and Italian.   Elaine is a lovely northern lass who’s lived here for 6 years. Enrico a local, like Carmen. So it was a great chance for me to give it a go. After dinner we went for a drink to an outside bar that had a live band. More people to meet. More italiano spoken. It was a good night!

 

Thunderstorms and lightning….

..what a difference a day makes.  Woke up this morning to an amazing thunderstorm.  The rain cascaded down outside my window and the lightning was very dramatic.

So I used it as an excuse for a lazy morning until the rain passed and then I went for a stroll. Just outside my apartment this greets me every day

It looks like post the Birth of Venus, she came to stay and left the shell outside. You get the feeling the palazzo was built for someone’s great love. I hope so at least.

What to do on an overcast day in Lecce. Well this of course

Whilst sitting there slowly sipping, I noticed lots of people going in and out of a palazzo directly opposite. I couldn’t see a name but after my drink and a bite to eat, I wandered in.  By now the sun was back out and it was beautiful inside.

 

I’m glad I did. I’m going to try and find out it’s name but for now it’s the Mystery Palazzo to me.

I’m out tonight for dinner with Carmen, my Lecce Italian teacher. She has promised me perfect pizza and lots of people so I’m looking forward to it.  I’ll report back.

 

 

I am an adventuress

I was asked at lunch yesterday if I was travelling with anyone. I said no. The response was instant and made me feel proud “ah, so you are an adventuress. How fantastic”

And do you know what?  It is fantastic. It’s not always easy and can be a bit lonely at times but you find adventures that would never happen if you were travelling with others. The freedom can be exhilarating and the rewards endless.

Heres’s to the adventuresses I know and admire. We have been saluted and I share the praise with you all.

Making the most of the good weather …

…meant a return trip to Porto Cesareo for sun, sea and sand.

After a lovely few hours on a pretty quiet beach, I packed up my bag, dropped it in the car and went for a walk along the beach and towards the port. It’s a very pretty place.

And I found my future summer home.  Maybe a bit too grand. What do you think?

It was a simple build, but what a view it has…

Back in Lecce, having showered off any remaining sand, I want for my evening stroll and came across two exhibitions. The first wasnt my thing at all, the second was fascinating.

It was at the Palazzo Vernazza and the building was equally magnificent to wander around as was the art to look at. Umberto Albanese. Look him up. Some stunning collages.

And here’s more of the Palazzo

On my way home I discovered a new eatery that cooks fresh pasta as take out. Perfect for people like me who still hate eating evening meals in restaurants on their own. Not sure I’ll ever conquer that one.

Pasta but not just any pasta…

Today was a great day. I met my lovely friend Gio. He is currently touring around a delightful American couple, Don and Susan, who make artisan pasta in California. Along with Anthony (originally from Hastings) who was the official driver, we all went to lunch in Lecce at Le Zie.

What an amazing lunch. Salento cuisine at its best. Honest, simple, tasty.  The photos on the wall are of various famous guests including Francis Ford Coppola.  An interesting point as Don has met him to discuss pasta. What a connection!

After lunch we travelled in convoy, yes I drove and apparently went through a red light or two but I’m not proud of that just proud that I was told by the driver in the car following that I drive like an Italian.  I felt that was a compliment!  And I didn’t go through a red light. It was red for turning left and I was going straight.

We drove to Maglie to the factory of Benedetto Cavalieri. They are artisan pasta makers since 1918. The factory was started by the current Benedetto’s grandfather and it’s now run by him and his son Andrea. Two of the most charming people I have met.

Don was in his element having admired the Cavalieris from afar. And they were so generous with their time. Showing us the antique typewriters, calculators and of course the pasta making machines. They still hand pack the pasta and the ladies didn’t mind me taking photos.

Here is Benedetto

And here he is with his son Andrea and Don

And a few more..

Gio Benedetto and Susan

They then took us for coffee and sent us on our way with samples. I feel very honoured to have had this experience. To see their passion was inspiring.

There is still so much to discover….

There is an arrogance in thinking that having spent 4 weeks here I know Lecce. The old city is mostly walled and therefore limited. But yet I still discovered new places today just from walking about with my eyes wide open.

 

What I love about this place is that every turn produces a new intake of breath.  So today I walked towards the third gate. I’d not seen it before and I don’t really know why. On the way I passed all of the following in the space of about 3 minutes…

 a beautiful church inside and out and then…

 

Before reaching the gate. It’s the smallest of the three

 

But impressive in its own way.   Sadly at each gate there is also the obligatory person, down on their luck and living off what little change they are given.

And tonight I broke out from beyond the walls and met my lovely Italian teacher Carmen at a local bar where everyone knows everyone and were very welcoming. The real Leccese I think I’ve finally found you…