And so home…

Can’t quite believe how fast this week has gone.  But the car has been returned albeit filthy and scratched (oh and a small dent!) and I’m waiting to board my flight.

Only 30 minutes of delay this time.  Things are improving EasyJet!

Case is now 7 kilos heavier full of good wine, great cheese, local honey and a ton of olive oil.  That’s why a half full case is a necessity on the way out.

One thing I kept meaning to mention here were all the butterflies – farfalle .  They were everywhere.   It was very peaceful to watch them.   I only slightly freaked when one came at me and I realised it was a moth but even he/she/it was beautiful.

So until the next time wherever in Italy that may be…. ci vediamo   (We’ll be seeing each other)

 

Advertisement

Last but not least…Siena

The gateway to history ….

 

I didn’t want to miss going to Siena even if briefly.   I had a relaxing start to the day, packed up the car and had a final swim.

Then a goodbye to the lovely Simona.  What a fantastic host.  I will definitely return and recommend their place.  A gem.

20 km northward I arrived at Porta Romana, the gateway into Siena.  Not too long to spend here I walked in towards the Piazza del Campo.   Famous for the bi-annual Palio-  horse race – around the square it’s a must see, however full of tourists!!

It is thought that Siena was founded by two sons of Remus who took the wolf emblem so these are seen across the city.

There is also evidence all across the city of places to tether the horses.

But mostly it’s a lovely city to visit. I wish I’d had more time but you always need something to go back to

 

And for lunch…..well as it was my last day it had to be pizza

 

In search of cheese

At lunch the owner was talking about a farm just outside Montepulciano that sells its produce direct. So rather than buy in the tourist shops, off I went in search. Montepulciano is a slightly larger hillside town than Pienza and once again breathtaking when you first see it in the distance

I had a wander and then off in search of the farm.  Success!  A lovely lady helped me choose after tasting 10 day old, 3 month and 6 month and vintage (years!) varieties.  Purchases made I was off.

Monticchiello is a small town tucked away.  Ever adventurous I took the via Blanca- the white road- mostly dust and scree with an added element of danger – well the car is already scratched so whatever!

Worth a visit.  Sleepy yes but probably unbearable in high season.  A medieval charm

 

Hot and tired, back to the farm for a swim and chill.

Last day tomorrow.  What will I squeeze in?

 

 

 

Next stop Pienza

After the peace I drove to Pienza via Bagno Vignoni.  It’s one of the towns with a thermal spring…and a speed camera apparently.  Not having much luck with cars this holiday!

Onwards to Pienza…

A hilltop town famous for its cheese-amongst other things. Unlike other Tuscan cheese that produce their cheese in the round, here it is differentiated by being oval shaped!

A meander around the town

 

Then a perfect time to stop for lunch. A shaded courtyard at Latte Di Luna.  A plate of spaghetti but local style- pici- a thicker version that’s almost like noodles. Of course I had to have with truffles – again another great lunch.

To be honest it was unexpectedly good. When I first sat down I wasn’t filled with confidence. It’s very touristy there.

An espresso and I was off. On my way back to the car I popped into an art gallery. I was tempted as it was an English artist plus I loved the look of the paintings. Fortune would have it she was there and we started to chat. We got on to travelling solo after a certain age and if she’s reading this now… go for it!  It’s given me a lot of joy, adventures and new friends along the way.  And hopefully when I return we can have a Spritz and talk about one of your new adventures!

 

More Tuscan gems…

This morning I drove south of Montalcino to just outside Castelnuovo dell’Abbate where you find Abbazia Di Sant’Antimo. This Abbey, unlike yesterday’s, still has a roof and monks. Beautiful choral music song by the monks plays inside.  It was built around the 1100s although the original church was 10th century.  According to the info, it’s “by far” the most important Romanesque building in Tuscany.

As you drive up to it it is certainly impressive.

 

And as you would expect surrounded by stunning scenery.

 

Inside it’s simple, almost honest in its humility compared with so many others I’ve seen.   It’s role was in part to support pilgrims on their journey so I guess the intention was to use their wealth for that.

 

Although great craftsmanship was evident on the outer doors

In the grounds they grow medicinal herbs and flowers plus there is an apiary and above all that a bit of tranquility.

 

Montalcino…home of wine, oil and honey

A short drive on and I arrived in Montalcino.  A pretty town to wander through with enoteca every other shop selling local vineyard wines, oil and honey.  All making Brunello wine.  How you choose I have no idea.   Some offer wine tasting.  Don’t touch 2014.  Too young and acidic!   I’m told 2013 was a great year.

So wine and oil bought.

A stroll around, passed the Duomo, along the streets to the fortress.

Then it was enough   It’s very very hot at the moment so back to the farm  and a swim and read of my book.

Sat by the pool and the owner turned up with her kids and some friends and a glass of wine for me!!  No complaints here at all.

 

Un pranzo straordinario ( an extraordinary lunch)

After the espresso, and with new energy, I had an equally stunning drive towards Montalcino.  I detoured enroute to a hilltop town called Sant’Angelo in Calle as I’d heard about a local restaurant famed for slow food that was freshly picked from the gardens.  And it was closed! Their loss my gain as it happens as I walked across the small piazza to the Trattoria il Pozzo.

A glass of Brunello ( this one from the Brizio vineyard- there are over 240 vineyards in this area)

 

I started with an insalate  zucchini e pecorino ( it’s a local speciality)

Followed by gnocchi with truffle in season

The olive oil is divine- the only way to enjoy Tuscan bread Dip it!   The oil is peppery and delicious.  We are so mislead by supermarket oil- it’s nothing like pure, local, quite honestly nectar!  Not just wine for the gods…I bet they dipped in olive oil too.

You know you’ve stumbled across a great place when the locals are treated like old friends.  And the food……  the salad was fresh and tasty and the gnocchi – I died….. honestly that was a perfect last meal…..  I have never tasted gnocchi like it and the truffle…..

Perfetto.

It’s a lovely place with stunning views

 

 

Full and happy. I moved on….

Roofless prayers…

This morning I drove through stunning forests, up and down hillsides on my way to Abbazia di  San Galgano.   The first gothic abbey to be built in Tuscany in the 13th century, it was inhabited until plague drove the monks to Siena.

The bell tower was hit in a storm and collapsed taking the roof with it. So it’s open to the elements.

The best thing about coming off season…empty car parks

A lovely stroll along a tree lined avenue towards the abbey.  Hay bales on one side that Constable would weep over and views all around.

 

Once there only a few people so good clear photos without rogue tourists in the background. Although I had to wait ages for one woman to move.  She was rooted to the spot.  If she’d been looking over her shoulder I’d have sworn she was a replica of Lot’s wife!  Look it up if you don’t know the reference (it’s my attempt at a biblical joke).

Beautiful place.  Very serene.  The Monks sure know how to pick a good spot.  Location location location

Stunning.   An espresso lungho in the cafe and off to the next new find…..

Good morning…

….from a slice of heaven.

I’ll be honest…I had a restless night. Nothing to do with the bed, it’s very comfortable.   Possibly I’m not used to the complete darkness and silence but probably just one of those things.

However, I  opened the windows to the sound of birds chirping, frogs croaking near the water reservoir, some insect that sounds like cicadas or crickets, a cool breeze and this view from my window

Doesn’t get much better….

 

A day of adventure including a rather large permanent mark….

Hmmm Hi I’ll get to the permanent mark shortly but it’s been a full day so I’ll break it down.

Left Santa Maria del Giudice with some sadness. All too quick.

15 mins later I was in Lucca.   A quick tip if you go.  Don’t drive into the walled city but park just outside    Much easier and way cheaper.  It’s 4 times the price within the walls.

And the walls……people told me that I’d find Lucca to be like a mini Lecce and it really is.  I love that you walk through gateways to enter the city.  And these walls can be walked on!!

Once inside I stopped for an Espresso and saw I was right next to the Puccini Museum.  It’s actually the house he was born in and grew up in and after selling it, rebought it once his operas started to be successful.  Now flats, the upper flat has been carefully restored and is a homage to him and his music.

One of my favourite operas is La Boheme.  To see the original music and costumes was magical  they’ve also turned the storeroom into the Garret from Act 1.

Then there are costumes from other operas including Tosca and Tarandot.  I’ve also included a picture of the bedroom.  It looks like wallpaper but it’s actually tempered paint.  Amazingly clever visually.

And as you wander throughout…his music is playing.🎼🎼

From there I went to Chiesa (church) of San Michele in Foro   Looks like a wedding cake .  It’s in a beautiful open piazza surrounded by buildings from a time gone by.

And inside as you’d expect many frescos  I was taken, however, by the organ with its balcony and the pulpit.  Not sure why  I’ve been in many churches in Italy.  I guess some hit a note.

Now one thing I’ve noticed re the difference between Puglia and Tuscany   The rich in Puglia showed off their riches by building churches, the rich in Tuscany built towers….lots of them.  In Lucca there are two of note.

The first is Torre del’Ore.  The tower of time.  You can just see the clock on the side of my picture.

The story goes that the ghost of Lucinda Mansi inhabits it.  From Lucca, she sold her soul to the devil for youth and beauty for three decades.  When he came for his debt she climbed the clock tower to try and stop time.  The devil caught her and took her soul.

The other tower of note is Torre Giungi.  It has 7 oak trees planted in a u shape flower bed at the top!

Lunch calling, I meandered the streets to Piazza Anfiteatro.  When I say meander I try and watch where the crowds go and walk down the other street….you discover more

As I sat down to eat, a delightful father and son appeared in the centre of the piazza, saxophone in hand and proceeded to serenade the cafe visitors.  I didn’t mind it added atmosphere.  I settled for an antipasto of Carpaccio of bresaola and rocket and Parmesan… delicious and lovely piazza to people watch.

A stroll post lunch led me to the main Cathedral.  Cattedrale di San Martino.  As always very impressive outside and in.  Beautiful mosaics and frescos

You cant come to Lucca and not go for a walk on the walls.  They are very wide and are part of daily life here. An evening stroll apparently is a must.

Time to move on to my new accommodation south of Siena.

A rather dull motorway drive including the biggest parked up traffic jam I’ve ever seen….and I’ve been on the M25 at rush hour in the UK!   Fortunately I was turning off at that point and followed the cars zooming past the jam and on my way…..

The road became more appealing as soon as I left the motorway but finding my accommodation was a challenge!  I ended up going up a dirt path, getting stuck and here it comes…. turning the car round and scrapping the back along a low wall that I thought I’d accounted for… ouch. That’s why we have insurance though.  At least no one was hurt…just my pride.

I finally found the place, a converted farm in the middle of nowhere just outside Monteroni d’arbia.  It was worth it.  It’s stunning.  My view from the door

Basta  (enough)…a late night swim, shower and having written this…bed.

A domani